Monday, October 18, 2010

Siswi and Elbows

Before our speedboat trip up the river to the Tanjung Puting National Park, we had a long conversation with Jenning.  Jenning is the brother of Harry, who is the person in charge of the company we chose to take our tour with.  While Harry takes care of the business side of things, Jenning takes care of the orangutan side of things.

He showed us album upon album of photos he had taken in the park of all the orangutans, each of whom he knows by name.  He told us stories of how they like to steal canoes and paddle around the river using their hands, how he wrestles and plays with them, how the orangutans know him and enjoy his company.  His favorite orangutan in the park is Thomas (brother of the dominant male, Tom) not because Thomas shows him any kind of attention, but because Thomas is wild.

The orangutan with the most stories, though, is Siswi.  Siswi has been at Camp Leakey for pretty much her whole life, and has learned how to work the system.  Jenning told us that we would definitely see her, because every day she lays sprawled out on the boardwalk that visitors must use to get into the park from the river.  She's learned that good things are usually in pockets and bags, and Jenning warned us that she might pat us down and inspect our bags, so it's best to carry nothing.

As we disembarked our speedboat, we carried only our cameras.  As we walked on the boardwalk toward the park, we spotted something dark laying in the middle a ways up.  Sure enough, there was Siswi.  We slowed as we got closer, and eventually stopped right in front of her.  We wait.  She waits.  She slowly holds her hand out toward us.  Our guide hands her an apple.  She takes a bite.  We are allowed to pass.

We make our way into the park, and watch a video in the information center.  When we exit the building, there is Siswi again, sitting under a tree.  This time we can get around her, but choose to stay and watch.  A ranger asks if anyone would like to sit next to her.  Of course I would!  I make my way over to where she's laying and proceed to sit down next to her.  She lays down.  I lay down.  She reaches over and puts her hand on my arm, just resting it there, not pulling.  She finds my elbow and tugs on the excess skin a little.  She scratches her own arm.  Then she reaches out and puts her hand down halfway between us, and I put my hand in hers.

Siswi and I, now we are friends.