Friday, February 11, 2011

Istanbul

Our first stay in Istanbul lasted one week, and during that time we attempted to plan the rest of our stay here. We also took plenty of time to do some exploring. It's easy to get lost in this huge city (it's split between two continents, even!) but with a little landmark recognition, trial and error wandering, and helpful Turkish people who are good at exaggerated hand motions, I was able to get a pretty good feel for this vibrant city. While in Istanbul Round 1, I:

Wandered the streets, people watching and observing daily life.

Made friends with stray dogs.

Browsed the colorful night markets.

Was silly in an art museum.

Learned that stray cats like to stay warm by becoming part of window displays.

Found the Galata Tower.

Crossed the Golden Horn via the Galata Bridge.

Ate delicious food.

Saw the Hagia Sophia.

Was awed by the interior of the Blue Mosque.

And Istanbul was just our first stop! To be continued...
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Tuesday, February 8, 2011

My Turkish Family


Our time in Turkey has been wonderful so far, and it's not even over yet. We stayed in Istanbul for a few days and did some sightseeing while planning the rest of our time here. I definitely wanted to go to the Cappadocia region; the rock formations looked amazing. Another city that looked interesting was Selçuk, as it is home to the ruins of Ephesus. We supposed that a stop in the capital city would be worthwhile, but shortly debated skipping it. Good thing we didn't.

Ankara turned out to be a very nice city, with lots of interesting museums and places to wander. But the main reason I loved Ankara so much came from the family we stayed with.

Candost was technically our host, but as he lives with his parents the whole family because our hosts. Candost goes to university but this is their two week break period, so he had lots of time to show us the interesting things around his city. He put together a list, and one by one we checked the destinations off it. We started with Atakule Tower, where we could see all of Ankara.

The Anatolian Civilizations Museum was next, where he patiently waited for me to finish reading everything and taking lots of pictures.

He drove us through the twisting back alleys on our way up to a high hill, where remnants of a castle stood.

We visited Anitkabir twice, and the second time his mom came with!

We sat together in the beautiful Kocatepe Mosque and enjoyed the silence.

We entered the 'jungle' of Tunali Street, where it's a constant traffic jam with pedestrians constantly crossing the road.

His parents are terrific. His mom, Aynur, made us dinner the evening we got there. It was 10:30pm and she still threw together tasty pide for us to eat! That was just the beginning, too. Every morning we all ate Turkish breakfasts together, consisting of bread, cheese, olives, peppers, omelettes, and Turkish tea. Every evening Aynur made delicious meals, with soup (yogurt with rice and mint, yogurt with thyme, lentil, and tomato), bread, salad, cheese, peppers, tomatoes, meatballs, rice pilaf, chicken, potatoes, cheese samosas, and more I can't even remember. One night for dessert Aynur whipped up a homemade tiramisu, and every dinner was followed with Turkish tea and fruit. She would often override (or selectively not hear) our protests that we were too full for thirds or fourths and continue piling food on our plate. It was so good we always finished it, regardless of how stuffed we were!

Kadir, his dad, told us about how both he and his wife are retired microbiologists. He was a boxer in high school, and pictures of him with an arm raised in victory in the ring adorn the wall near the stairs. He was concerned when we told him of our plans to visit Göreme. He assured us that it was all closed and it was far too cold; I think they just wanted us to stay longer. (Although he was right - lots of the town was closed and it was really cold!) But, he knew we were going there next, and so he gave each of us one of his old warm winter coats; mine is bright orange. It has been invaluable!

One thing that makes Turkey so great, beyond the beautiful land and most delicious food, is that the people are extremely welcoming, friendly, and willing to help. Candost, Aynur, and Kadir were the epitome of this Turkish hospitality, and meeting them definitely made my trip to Ankara (and Turkey) better. Before we left, Aynur and I hugged. "I love you!" she said. "I love you too! You're like my Turkish mom." "Yes!" she replied. A great family, and I'm so glad we were fortunate enough to meet! :)
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Thursday, January 27, 2011

Galle to Istanbul: 4100 Miles

All packed up and farewells said, I prepared to begin the journey from Galle, Sri Lanka to Istanbul, Turkey.

As we left the harbor for the last time, my faithful retinue of dogs surrounded us, and proceeded to escort me out the gate. These guys were always super happy to see me and would sprint my direction whenever they saw me approaching. Maybe it's because I fed them whatever snacks I had carried for that very purpose..

This little guy was my favorite. He was there every single time I entered or exited the harbor, and was so sweet!

Matt and I boarded the train to Colombo, and were favored with fine weather and beautiful views of the ocean.

We hung out in Colombo for the rest of the day, then made our way by bus to the airport. After a stressful time convincing the airline that our bags really would fit in the overhead, we boarded the plane with relief. Our first flight took us from Colombo, Sri Lanka to Dubai, United Arab Emirates. After a short layover we boarded our second and last plane to Istanbul, Turkey. This flight took us over a wide variety of landscapes, from deserts to snowy mountains to the green forests of Turkey itself.

Finally, we arrived! After a short shuttle ride, we were deposited in the bustling Taksim Square.

Hello, Turkey, Europe, and cold weather!
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Saturday, January 22, 2011

Martin!


This is Martin. He is from Austria, Europe. We first met him in Luganville, Vanuatu at a small cafe; we were each using the wifi there and I was enjoying a particularly good chocolate muffin. We saw each other next in Darwin, Australia at Dinah Beach, and again at Danga Bay in Johor Bahru, Malaysia. We spent the most time together when our WTP and his Anima III were hauled out in Pangkor. He and I both love cats, and we even shared a kitten between boats during our time there.


Everyone on the WTP was very happy every time we spotted his very pretty boat at the same place we were. Our last night on the boat in Galle, Martin made a delicious farewell dinner on his boat and both crews enjoyed a lovely evening of reminiscing. The next morning Matt and I shouldered our packs and balanced our way down the lego-docks one last time. It was very sad to say farewell to Martin, but it wasn't goodbye. Until we meet again, Martin!

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Friday, January 21, 2011

Change Is On The Wind


The s/v William T. Piquette has been the constant for me in this journey. The boat was my home, it was where I returned to every night. It was where my bed was, where we cooked and ate meals, watched movies and played card games, went spinnaker flying and swimming, had friends over to hang out and talk late into the night. Another constant has been the water. Wherever we've gone, we've arrived by traversing oceans, bays, straits, and even rivers. And while I usually greeted the sight of land with joy, it always felt right to push the dinghy away from it and go back out onto the water, heading home to the boat.

My life has revolved around this boat for the last eight months. That sounds strange to me because before joining Eye of the World in Tahiti I had never sailed before. It was an unknown way of life, and an unknown way of travel. I have definitely learned an incredible amount over the past 9500 nautical miles. I can raise, drop, pack, and reef sails; check fluids and start the engine; hold a course at the wheel; refill fuel by siphoning it through a tube; drop and raise the dinghy; pick up a mooring; drop anchor and set the snubber. I finally mastered the windvane, and overcame my nervousness at docking; I even looked forward to it. I can cook a delicious meal while the galley and everything in it is rocking madly. I've learned to see the wind on the water and feel it on my face. I can hold us on course in storms when it's most important. And before the WTP, I had no idea any of that existed, let alone that I could and would do it all.

I believe our decision to continue overland is a good one. The piracy situation in the Gulf of Aden and beyond is growing worse, and although boats may pass through just fine (and I sincerely hope they all do!), the consequences of not making it through are dire. With the time we have left, we will be able to see much more by traveling overland, fully immersed in the cultures of the cities we travel through. And our heading remains the same: due west.

Life on the boat has been amazing. Sometimes it hasn't been easy, but it's always been exciting and challenging. I have pushed myself and gotten out of my comfort zone, only to find that zone expanding and my confidence increasing with the new experiences. I have met great, inspiring people and made new friends, witnessed so many breathtaking sights, and seen a plethora of exotic and wonderful animals. Although I'm sad to leave the boat, I will approach the next part of this adventure with the same attitude I had when I stepped on the WTP in Tahiti, and embrace it fully.
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Thursday, January 20, 2011

Galle Puppy Saga - Vol. 6: Encore


Of course there's an encore! Animal SOS is such a great place, especially because our little harbor puppies are there. The walk to the boat definitely feels emptier without them.

In the days between visits, I had some time in which to gather a few toys. Adam is quite good at breaking flip flops, and the remaining flops had just been taking up space on deck. They were now soon-to-be puppy toys. On one of the last crossings Matt spotted a ball floating in the middle of the ocean. He turned the boat around and we picked it up. That was also to be a puppy toy. Finally, I spent some quality arts and crafts time making monkey's fists out of spare line on board. I imagined the puppies playing tug-of-war with each other and figured this particular knot would be difficult for them to untie or destroy with their sharp little teeth.

I felt like Santa on Christmas morning when I entered the puppy pen with my plastic bag full of goodies! The puppies were excited just to have a visitor, let alone one who brought them fun things!

The ball was first. They seemed a bit confused when it kept moving on its own, but they all pounced on it anyways. It's too big for the puppies to bite but that's probably a good thing. For now they can just awkwardly try to climb on it!

The flip flops were also very popular, because they are small and light enough to be carried around! But, I fear they will soon be in pieces.

Finally, the monkey's fists. These were very popular and excellent for tug-of-war; four puppies can all tug on one at once! Plus, watching a tiny puppy try to carry a big rope toy up steps is very comical.

The puppies were very excited with their new toys and played for awhile. They ran all over their pen, growling and barking at each other and chewing on everything (sometimes even my shoes, which were NOT puppy toys). Eventually, they grew tired and all they wanted was a lap on which to take a nap. I had such a lap, but could only fit three or four puppies at a time.

Here's Coffee Black, who is looking very much like Mama dog! She's still very sweet and smart, and Debbie (the shelter's manager) told me that a Sri Lankan family recently came to find a dog and applied to adopt our own Coffee Black!

These puppies certainly aren't the only dogs at Animal SOS, and while I did spend a lot of time with them, I also hung out with the other dogs. Animal SOS sits on a big chunk of very pretty land, and there are well-worn paths through the grass that mark the dogs' favorite paths.

Even though there is a lot of space to run around, the dogs still prefer to lay around the shelter's buildings, because that's where the people are!

My last trip was a day trip only, but this time there was room for me to spend the night! There are plans for Animal SOS to rent a house, which would allow the full time, long term volunteers to have a quiet place to go to each night, and would also free up space for shorter term volunteers to stay on site. I was warned that it could get loud at night, especially because it was almost a full moon. The dogs did bark a bit, and a couple times put on lovely howling concerts, but I was able to get some good sleep. Plus, when I woke up in the morning I was greeted happily by the pack!

This is George. He's my favorite, other than the puppies, because he is super clever and laid back. He snuck into the kitchen on my first visit and was eating out of the big bowl of food before it was dinner time! He's very good at slipping past you as you open the gate to go inside, and once inside is also very good at seeming innocent. When I let him into my room on purpose, he immediately jumped on the bed and curled up. His tactic for trying to stay inside is a good one: when I tried to pick him up to put him back outside, he rolled on his back and went limp to make it more difficult!

George again!

This is Fraggle. He's a small pup with huge ears, and even though he's a little guy he bosses the big dogs around! Somehow he ended up in the puppy pen (probably snuck in at feeding time for a late night snack) and spent the night trapped with the harbor puppies!

Some dogs get to stay in the apartments with the staff. These two live in Debbie's rooms. The black one (Funny Fing) she brought in as a puppy because he was battling a bad virus and was in rough shape, and he needed the extra attention. The tan one (Blondie), was living there when Debbie arrived and refuses to leave!

When feeding time rolls around, mayhem begins. The dogs must be put in cages according to size and behavior. This is Nanda's specialty. He's the resident dog whisperer and knows which dogs to put where. The dominant dogs get put in individual cages. The younger and smaller dogs get put into one big cage together. Smaller groups of adult dogs that get along go into the sheds to await their dinner. Nanda hoists dogs into the air and deposits them into the correct pen, or instructs others to help by pointing to dogs and motioning which cage they go in (it's too loud with all the dogs barking for talking to do any good).

Here's a pack of younger dogs waiting for dinner. It's a challenge trying to put a dog in, because while you're getting one inside three will escape!

The dogs get dry dog food (biscuits) for breakfast, and a veritable feast in a bowl for dinner. Seriously, their food smelled delicious! Every day a giant pot of rice is made in the morning so it has time to cool before dinner. Along with the rice, a pot of ground chicken, pumpkin, onions, cassava, lettuce, garlic, and more dry dog food is prepared. Every dog gets a bowl of this mixture, still warm from the stove! Nandini and Latta are the chefs, and you can tell the dogs love their meals based on how quickly they eat it!

Here is Doc, eagerly awaiting dinner.

The dogs at Animal SOS are awesome to hang out with. They're all friendly and just want to be loved on, and maybe sit on your lap for a bit. The people who run this dog haven are equally as awesome. It takes a lot of work to just take care of the dogs day-to-day, let alone work every day to accomplish their mission: educate people about animal welfare, provide medical attention including surgeries, spay/neuter and vaccinate street dogs, and rescue even more puppies and kittens and provide a safe place for them to grow up. A big task, but certainly a very inspiring and significant one for Sri Lanka. Check out the Animal SOS website and the Animal SOS facebook page!
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