Siamese Cats Everywhere?

Stray dogs and cats are prolific in every country we visit. And if they're friendly, I will pet them. Most times, animals are unused to people actually wanting to approach them, and they respond accordingly. They usually act a little afraid first, and are hesitant to get too close to me. I usually squat down and hold a hand out for sniff-inspection. It is at this point that a dog or cat will either shyly stick around (prospects of petting good) or run away at full speed (prospects for petting zero). When it becomes clear that I mean them no harm and and might actually be nice, their demeanor changes.

The dog or cat in question will slowly come and smell my hand for a bit. Once I pass the sniff test, a total change takes place. What was a hesitant, jumpy dog or cat turns into an exuberant, wiggling, purring or tail-wagging machine. It always makes me happy to see this change take place, and to give these oft-ignored animals some positive attention.

Here in Thailand, I was especially looking forward to seeing the local cat population. Thailand was once known as Siam, and this is where the Siamese cat breed originates from. There should be Siamese cats everywhere, right? Well, half of that statement turned out to be true. There are cats everywhere, but I only saw one that had the typical Siamese markings (the centerpiece of my Thai cat collage).

The majority of stray animals, cats and dogs, looked to be very well cared for. They were fat, friendly towards people, and dogs and cats alike even had collars. So, even though there weren't the herds of graceful Siamese cats I was hoping for, I still obliged as many of the local cat (and dog) population as I could by petting them, and taking their picture.

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The Story of Almost Kitten

This is Kitten. She was never given another name, because that would have been even more dangerous than letting her live on our boat for the duration of our stay on Pangkor. She was often referred to simply as 'the kitten,' not that there would have been any real confusion among us during that week.

That week at Marina Island was quite productive. The boat was hauled out, the rudder shoe fixed, the bottom scrubbed, two coats of bottom paint and a new layer on the bootstripe applied, a new prop fitted - even the gold pinstripe received a touch-up. One evening after a days work, a few of us decided to go out to dinner. Matt, Martin from Anima III, Adam, and myself walked almost a mile across a field, through an empty group of apartments, crossed a relatively busy traffic circle, over the bridge connecting Marina Island to the mainland, and down a street to get to our favorite char kway teow cart. Sadly, the noodle cart was closed so we decided to eat at Kopitiam instead, which was on the way back to the boats.

While heading back up the street toward the bridge, I spotted a black cat near the road. Of course I stopped to see if it was friendly; half the cats and dogs were, but half would run away if approached. This one was friendly, and I happily stopped to pet her as the other three continued to walk. She was eerily similar to my cat, Isis, with her sleek black coat and raspy meow. As I started walking to catch up to the others, I was slightly surprised to find that the cat was following me. I kept going, sure that she would turn around after a little further. Halfway across the bridge she was still following, often running to catch up to Matt and I only to stop directly in front of us, as if to get our attention. Now, I'll admit that I did walk slower than normal, and Matt and I would pet her when she caught up to us, so maybe we encouraged her a bit... but she was still very determined on her own to keep pace with us.

We got to the traffic circle and I finally capitulated - I carried her across. I figured she would follow us one way or another, so why not help her cross this dangerous roadway? Martin and Adam were already sitting down outside when Matt and I arrived, and Martin's face lit up when he saw that the kitten was with us. I guessed that she was about 7 or 8 months old, still young enough to be called a kitten. She hung around the table and on our laps as we ate, and Martin not-so-secretly snuck her pieces from his plate. When we finished dinner and starting walking back to the boat, she again ran to keep up to us.

Once back at the boats, we decided to see how she would do on Martin's boat. Since the boats were up on jackstands, we had to climb ladders to get onto them. Kitten purred while being carried up, and then confidently explored Martin's boat. After her brief tour, Martin laid out refreshments in the form of cold milk in a dish, and after sampling this she jumped up on a cushion and laid down, purring. It was like she had lived on a boat her whole life. I made a litter box out of a shallow plastic container that Martin donated and sand from a nearby construction site, and she used this litter box without fail the entire time she was on either of our boats!

It had gotten pretty late, and we left Anima III to go to bed. We climbed down Martin's ladder and up ours, watching to see if Kitten would look over the edge after us. She didn't, but she did get curious when she saw us up on our boat. Adam and I were on the WTP, and Martin was still on Anima III with Kitten. Staving off sleep for a little longer, we decided to fashion a bridge, or a catwalk (ha ha..), to see if she would cross to our boat. Martin held one end of a long piece of canvas and we caught the other end, holding it taught over the twelve foot drop to the ground. With only a little hesitation, Kitten walked across it fearlessly! She explored our boat for a bit and then we climbed down with her and back up to return her to Martin's boat for the night.

The next morning, Adam was very confused when he woke up to find Kitten on our boat again. Did Martin carry her across sometime in the night, or very early in the morning? He asked, and Martin said he thought Kitten had left sometime in the night. This would be difficult considering that she would have to climb down his ladder in order to leave... but that's EXACTLY what she did! And not only did she climb down Martin's ladder, she knew where we were and climbed UP our ladder to get to us on our boat! Incredible!

Needless to say, Kitten hung around our boats while we worked on them, and made herself quite at home on both of them. She spent most of her days sleeping on someone's bunk, on top of the sail bags, or sprawled out on the floor. When we left, we would just lock her up down below with food, water, and the improvised litter box. On one trip the the grocery store, I bought a small bag of cat food because the tuna didn't last long once it was out of the can. If we left for a day, she hung out with Martin. When Martin left to pick up crew in Kuala Lumpur, she stayed with us.

When it was time for the WTP to go back in the water and test the new prop, Kitten came with. She didn't seem to mind the engine being on, or even the motion of the boat on the water. She was a bit scared when we turned the blower on (a fan to keep the engine compartment cool) but she soon got over that. She walked around a bit, and then, apparently bored by the whole mess of sailing, went to sleep under the dinghy. We stayed on the dock right across from Martin that night, and Kitten went back and forth between our boats, equally comfortable on each. I think she liked Martin's boat because it had more places in the shade to sleep. And he spoiled her by giving her cold milk!

The day before we were scheduled to leave, we all talked about the pros and cons of having a cat on board. Yes, we almost decided to keep her. It was really close. But, we weren't sure about the rules involved with bringing a cat into the countries remaining on our route, and it was up in the air who would keep her upon our return. I have two cats already (Isis and Dart!) and I'm very happy with the dynamic that they and my dog (Baron!) have; I wasn't planning on bringing another cat into the mix. Another factor that weighed heavily on my mind was the possibility of rough weather and the dangers they posed to a small creature in a big ocean. It would be all too easy for her to wash overboard during a storm, unless she was locked down below. Things sometimes get hectic though, and it would be better for her to stay in Pangkor, where she'd lived her whole life, than to be faced with the chance of washing overboard.

With these thoughts in mind, crews from both Anima III and the WTP carried her back to where we found her - through the field, past the apartments and the traffic circle, and over the bridge. We set her down and walked to a nearby restaurant to eat dinner. When we exited the restaurant and started over the bridge to go back to the boats, we were split into two groups- Martin and everyone else. The big group walked around the corner toward the bridge and spotted a familiar black shape laying on a chair. We kept walking, looking back frequently to see if she followed. She didn't... until Martin rounded the corner behind us and passed her. Then she leapt off her chair and sprinted after him. He crossed the street to lose her, and she crossed it after him. He crossed it back and picked up his pace to lose her, and she followed him and ran even faster. It seemed that she really didn't want to stay behind!

She followed us the whole way back to our boat, this time on a different dock entirely than Martin's. Resigned (and not a little happy) I went off to fetch new sand for her little box, and Adam went to open hatches on the boat. He turned his back on her for 10 seconds and when he turned back she was gone! We thought she might be confused on the new dock so we set off to look for her, hoping she hadn't met the dog that hung around the marina. Then, lo and behold, we see Martin walking toward us holding a small black something. "I think you lost something" was all he said as he handed her over. Kitten had found her way to Martin's boat, probably looking for her litter box (or cold milk!).

Our plans changed, as they do, and we ended up staying in Pangkor for a couple more days. Kitten hung out on our boat during that time, and I really liked having her (I think we all did, Martin included). She was always sleeping somewhere cute, or willing to be held and purr contentedly. We all waffled back and forth on whether or not to keep her (it seemed to be definitely yes or definitely no depending on what hour of what day it was), but the original decision held. In the hour before we left, I got a car ride back to where we found her. I set her down in the grass and then got back in the car, and sadly headed back to the boat so we could shove off. It was terribly hard to leave her like that, but I know she'll be fine - she has been so far in her life on Pangkor.

Plus, there's still a chance she'll find her way back to the marina a third time, and spend the rest of her life sleeping on and getting spoiled by every boat that comes in.

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Meet Chili

Our spot on the dock at the Danga Bay Marina in Johor Bahru, Malaysia was the farthest away from the marina building, but closest to something more awesome- Chili Pepper.

The first time I saw Chili was while walking down the dock toward our boat, which was at the very end. Actually I heard her first, as she barked at anyone coming down the dock. I could often hear her barking in the middle of the night to warn her owners, Chris and Lynn, that someone was approaching.

Chris and Lynn are from South Africa and have been cruising for 12 years. They are pretty handy when it comes to boat maintenance, and work along the way fixing things for other boats. They used to have another dog many years ago, but she got seasick and didn't really like boat life, so they found a good home for her and went a few years without a canine companion. Having a pet on board can make clearing in to some countries a bit of a hassle and Australia has the strictest rules, so Chris and Lynn waited until they were already in Australia to get another dog. They got Chili, and it's very obvious how much they both love her.

Although Chili is only 6 months old, she's very smart and already knows sit, down, and shake. She has a turf grass mat on the bow of the boat for doing her business underway and will go up there even during choppy weather. In really bad storms, Chili stays out of the way down below and cuddles with her favorite toy- a stuffed monkey. She's very friendly with everyone and liked to play chase along the docks. She's also very useful for protecting her boat. Lynn said that many times people will avoid their boat if they hear Chili barking!

I often knew when Chili was on the dock because I could hear Chris saying, "Chili don't chew the dock, they'll ask us to leave!" or 'C'mon Chili, don't make me come get you." when she thought it was too hot to go for a walk. She was a very cute little dog, and I looked forward to going back to the boat because there was a good chance Chili would be there to greet me... and pee on the dock from excitement.

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Manu: Street Fighter Turned Softie

On our recent trip to the Singapore Zoo, I was watching the cheetahs being fed when I noticed one of the cheetahs staring intently into the water at the front of their enclosure.  Two of the keepers went to investigate and when they returned I asked what was down there.  One of them said it was probably a lizard, and from that initial question we struck up a very interesting conversation.

The keeper's name is Manu.  He is short, very muscular, has a shaved head, and tattoos cover both arms and his neck.  His job at the zoo: Big Cat Keeper.

Manu told me about his life outside the zoo, and how he used to fight a lot on the streets and be pretty confrontational.  When he started at the zoo he used to work with other keepers, but it soon became clear that he didn't work well with others.  He was banished (or so he tells it) to work by himself as the Polar Bear Keeper.  He was surprised when he forged a strong bond with the only polar bear at the zoo, an older male named Nanook.  He says he used to pet him on the nose and Nanook knew when Manu called his name.  Unfortunately, Nanook died in late December 1995 from heart and lung disease.  Manu visibly choked up when he told us that part of his tale.  The zoo, knowing they had an extremely competent (if abrasive) keeper on their hands, transferred him to the big cats, where he became the lead keeper.

Now, Manu runs Big Cat Country, making sure all the cats - jaguars, white tigers, lions, cheetahs, pumas, and leopards - are happy and well-fed.  He told me many stories, all of which were very exciting.  Let me retell them:

Manu doesn't trust the jaguars, especially the female, Angel.  She's very crafty and has actually escaped a couple times during zoo hours!  Once, she launched herself through the small door at the top of her enclosure's cage roof after a junior keeper fed the jaguars through it.  The junior keeper called Manu up the ladder, not telling him that Angel was loose.  So Manu climbs the ladder and comes face to face with a jaguar!  He calmly climbed down the ladder, and then told the two junior keepers that were still on the roof with Angel to choose - they could jump down and maybe break their legs, or stay up there and maybe lose their lives!  Needless to say, they jumped and were fine (and they eventually re-caught Angel).

On the infrequent occasion that one of his charges does escape, Manu also has to deal with zoo guests.  He told me of one time when Angel escaped (she's a troublemaker!) and how people wanted to go towards her enclosure to see her!  Manu told them that if they wanted to get killed by a jaguar that was their choice, but would they please leave their children outside the zoo entrance.

He also told me a story about the African hunting dogs.  Even though they're not big cats, Manu helps out all over the zoo.  He and another keeper went into the hunting dogs enclosure to clean it.  The male dogs thought they were infringing on their territory and their females, and moved in to attack.  Manu and the other keeper managed to back away and out the door, but it was still an experience.  Hunting dogs take their prey down by going for their legs first and ripping the muscles out.  Then they move upwards, tearing out their victim's guts.  And they hunt in packs!

Manu loves and respects all the big cats, and they respect him.  He told me that the male lion, however, has a bit of a dominance issue.  The lion thinks that Manu is trying to be the pride leader and steal his females, and doesn't like him too much.  Manu said that if the lion were to escape, and he and I were standing next to each other directly in his path, I could feel perfectly safe because the lion would surely go for Manu.  He joked (maybe) that he asked the other cat keepers to call him immediately if the lion escapes, even if he's at home, because he's sure the lion will come for him wherever he is.

Manu is so involved with the big cats that while he can name every single cat in the Singapore Zoo, he sometimes forgets family member's birthdays.  But working with such deadly creatures has been a good thing for him.  He says they keep him grounded and focused, and are excellent counselors.  He plans on retiring soon but is worried that the next lead keeper won't measure up to his high standards.  And while caring for the big cats does require a lot of attention, diligence, and knowing the big cats' every need, it also takes a good measure of confidence and bravery.  So while the cats hold a special place in Manu's heart, he is definitely still one of the toughest guys in the zoo.

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This Is For You, Baron

My dog, Baron, is quite hairy. He sheds this hair wherever he goes - the floor, in the car, my bed, and on the couch (he used to sneak onto it when I wasn't home, but I've since resigned myself to sharing it with all my animals and their hair).

To help control the number of hairbunnies blowing around my apartment, I bought a set of hair clippers and started giving Baron haircuts. It was super fun to watch as all that hair came off in one fell swoop, instead of covering my apartment gradually. I think Baron enjoys having short hair as well, because it means he stays cooler when we play outside under the hot sun.

But I wasn't satisfied with giving my dog a normal haircut. He needed something extra, because he's just that awesome. So I started leaving a strip of longer hair down the middle of his neck and back. That's right - dog mohawk. If he ever got huffy enough about something to make that hair on the back of his neck stand up, he looked extra intimidating.

It's tradition for new sailors, called pollywogs, to shave their heads and swim around the boat (at least on the WTP; other boats have different rituals). After crossing the equator, pollywogs become shellbacks. I was looking forward to this milestone with mostly excitement, and a little bit of trepidation. Would I shave my head? I wasn't sure, but then I thought of Baron and had an idea. I wouldn't quite shave my head, but I would drastically cut my hair. (Sorry mom.)

I copied my dog, Baron, and went with his hairstyle - mohawk!

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Siswi and Elbows

Before our speedboat trip up the river to the Tanjung Puting National Park, we had a long conversation with Jenning.  Jenning is the brother of Harry, who is the person in charge of the company we chose to take our tour with.  While Harry takes care of the business side of things, Jenning takes care of the orangutan side of things.

He showed us album upon album of photos he had taken in the park of all the orangutans, each of whom he knows by name.  He told us stories of how they like to steal canoes and paddle around the river using their hands, how he wrestles and plays with them, how the orangutans know him and enjoy his company.  His favorite orangutan in the park is Thomas (brother of the dominant male, Tom) not because Thomas shows him any kind of attention, but because Thomas is wild.

The orangutan with the most stories, though, is Siswi.  Siswi has been at Camp Leakey for pretty much her whole life, and has learned how to work the system.  Jenning told us that we would definitely see her, because every day she lays sprawled out on the boardwalk that visitors must use to get into the park from the river.  She's learned that good things are usually in pockets and bags, and Jenning warned us that she might pat us down and inspect our bags, so it's best to carry nothing.

As we disembarked our speedboat, we carried only our cameras.  As we walked on the boardwalk toward the park, we spotted something dark laying in the middle a ways up.  Sure enough, there was Siswi.  We slowed as we got closer, and eventually stopped right in front of her.  We wait.  She waits.  She slowly holds her hand out toward us.  Our guide hands her an apple.  She takes a bite.  We are allowed to pass.

We make our way into the park, and watch a video in the information center.  When we exit the building, there is Siswi again, sitting under a tree.  This time we can get around her, but choose to stay and watch.  A ranger asks if anyone would like to sit next to her.  Of course I would!  I make my way over to where she's laying and proceed to sit down next to her.  She lays down.  I lay down.  She reaches over and puts her hand on my arm, just resting it there, not pulling.  She finds my elbow and tugs on the excess skin a little.  She scratches her own arm.  Then she reaches out and puts her hand down halfway between us, and I put my hand in hers.

Siswi and I, now we are friends.

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C'est Chaud

On this last crossing, the WTP was not a sailboat. It was a motorboat.

We check what's called a GRIB before we start our crossings. GRIBs tell us what the wind will do, like direction and speed, and also show any high and low pressure systems we might encounter. As it turned out, there was much less wind than the GRIB we downloaded our last day on Bali predicted.

We timed our departure just right, even waited an extra day to ensure better winds. We needed to make it back up the Lombok Strait, which had proved tough to get down on our way into Bali, and that required good northerly winds. GRIB: downloaded and looked favorable. Boat: packed and ready. Crew: getting itchy to be on the move again. All the proper ingredients to set sail.

The current was against us up the Lombok Strait and sails weren't enough, so we started the engine. The boat made pretty good time and we enjoyed lovely views of the Bali coastline. Once past the island, though, things turned rough. Heavy clouds gathered and we prepared for a storm, which brought rain, lightning, and wind. At one point we turned back toward Bali to avoid the lightning! One rough night later things had calmed down. In fact, they calmed down a bit too much, contrary to what our trusted GRIB showed us.

We had a couple great afternoons of sails up and 6 knots, but other than that we motored. The whole way.* This is unfortunate for a number of reasons. When we motor, we use diesel, and refueling costs money. No wind means no cooling breeze, which means the boat gets pretty toasty, especially during any time the sun is visible. (I originally thought 'afternoon' but it starts heating up at sunrise.) My bunk is also right next to the motor and gets pretty hot, and going to sleep wondering how drenched in sweat you'll be upon waking is, well, gross. Usually if you can just make it to the sleep stage it's alright, but waiting to fall asleep while sticking to your bed is not the most comfortable thing.

Even with the heat and the motoring, some good things came on this crossing. This was our first run on a 5 person watch schedule, and I must say it's pretty awesome. The boat feels no more crowded but we all have so much extra time to sleep, and read, and sleep more. The sunsets were beautiful and most of our nights were clear, cool, and full of stars. And on day 3 we turned the motor off and took a swim break in the middle of the ocean, complete with soap and shampoo. But even with those nice moments, I can safely say we're all ready for the WTP to become a sailboat again.

*Edit: I preemptively wrote this post on day 4 of the crossing. Poseidon must have read it and gotten angry, because two nights later we got wind... and rain and wind and lightning and more wind. The storm hit roughly 10 minutes before my 3am watch, and Adam later said that when he went to drop the headsail he could feel the first front of the storm vibrate the forestay.

We dropped all the sails and put up the storm jib to ride it out, but did get blown a bit off course for a few hours. With sunrise came the calm we're used to, the wind having left us again.

That's the last time I write a post about no wind during the middle of a crossing..

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